norilskBy Peter Galuszka

The other day I tried to book a lunch date with the Blogger in Chief but was informed that inclement weather was looming on the Old Dominion and he might be hibernating for a few days.

Imagine my surprise this morning when I awoke to find a few inches of snow and some light sleet pelting around. Sure enough, the state seems to have shut down. This begs another question. Why are Virginians such weather whoosies?

Millions of people around the world live and work in much harsher conditions. I spent six years reporting from Moscow in the 1980s and 1990s and had plenty of bone-chilling experiences. There was that ultra-cold day in Novosibirsk just before Thanksgiving when the temperature was about minus 30. But if you want to consider the granddaddy of them all, go to Norilsk in Siberia, the northern-most city of more than 100,000 in the world.

khodorkovsyI went to Norilsk in January 1996 for a BusinessWeek cover story on the crop of rising oligarchs who were cashing in on post-Communist privatization. One was Mikhail Khodorkovsky, a geek-turned-billionaire who, ironically, was just recently released by President Vladimir Putin after spending a decade in prison. It was a pre-Sochi Olympics gesture to make nice. I had interviewed Khodorkovsky many times and found him a meek and thoughtful man.

Another oligarch was Vladimir Potanin who was cornering the market on Russia’s vast reserves of precious metals. It was thanks to Potanin that I got to go to Norilsk. He was involved in a rough proxy battle to take over Norilsk’s rich array of smelters insofar as Russia was capable of having real proxy fights back in the 1990s.

Vladimir-PotaninSo, with Potanin’s invitation, Alexei, a Russian photographer, and I jetted off to Norilsk, a horrible, treeless snow-swept waste. It has a particularly horrible history.

Founded at the end of the 1920s, Norilsk became a center of Stalin’s GULAG system which in this case exploited rich reserves of nickel, cobalt, copper, platinum, palladium and coal. The only way in or out if by air or by rail and road to a specially built port on a river that flows into the Arctic Ocean.

Norilsk is covered with snow for up to 270 days a year and has snow storms lasting a total of about 120 days. In January and February, the average lows are about minus 23. Record lows are about minus 63.

Political prisoners built up a huge metals mining and metallurgical apparatus from the 1930s until the 1950s. More than 16,000 died and many fatalities occurred during World War II when food was short.

When we arrived at the airport, we were met by one of Potanin’s black limousines that hustled us across a snowy tundra road whose outlines only the driver could see. Our hotel was a shamble of brickwork and amenities were similar to what many reporters are finding today in Sochi albeit no stray dogs. They’d be dead. Tracked bulldozers worked 24/7 keeping snow from piling up.

Rogov and I had trouble finding food. The hotel kitchen was closed and we slogged down the streets until we pounded on the door of a closed restaurant and convinced them to give us something to eat.

Next day we toured a copper smelter. Rogov had to keep his cameras next to his skin under his parka because the lenses would freeze. We had no hard hats, no respirators. At one point we had just moved several yards when a huge pocket poured molten copper just where he had been standing. That night, we had severe headaches from the fumes.

We also had more trouble finding food. Luckily, we saw a light at the hotel restaurant from a room in the back. There a Brit with a moustache and dressed in a double-breasted Navy blue blazer was selling time-shares to young Norilsk residents in such places as Crete and Majorca. “These people NEED this,” he said.

We needed it, too, but we ended up getting stuck in Norilsk by an ice storm (a real one, not the Richmond version). What was worse was that we were running out of money.

Anyway, we finally made it back to Moscow. One of my stories is here.

I have lost track of Potanin who managed to build up a nest egg worth $14.3 billion. Just last week, he gave a lot of it away to charity in advance of a divorce settlement from his wife Natalya. Last October, when he was in New York, he made headlines by buying a white truffle at a restaurant for $93,000.

The moral? Stop whining and get to work. White truffles await.


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10 responses to “Why Are Virginians Such Weather Whoosies?”

  1. DJRippert Avatar

    Peter:

    I am with you. It’s one thing when Atlanta or Tallahassee falls apart during a “once in a lifetime” snow. DC averages 14.5″ of snow per year. Richmond averages 10.5″. Snow is a fact of life in Virginia. So, why the panic every time it snows?

    However, one thing I will say – Fairfax County has done a damn good job of snow removal so far this year. Much better than usual. We have about 8″ from last night. We’ll see if Fairfax can keep their “Winter of 2013 – 2014” record intact.

    1. LifeOnTheFallLine Avatar
      LifeOnTheFallLine

      We don’t panic every time it snows, only when that snow is outsize historical norms. Yes, Richmond gets 10.5″ of snow a year, but almost all of that is the result of individual snowfall less than 3 inches that is usually gone by the next day when the weather warms back up. When it defies that expectation – as it has this year with abnormal amounts of snow and cold – things shut down because we don’t invest in the infrastructure and equipment to manage it. But it’s kind of you to be so understandable of Atlanta’s two-inch blizzard.

    2. LifeOnTheFallLine Avatar
      LifeOnTheFallLine

      It’s also nice to see you give VDOT the thumbs up for the job they’ve done pushing snow in Fairfax.

  2. LifeOnTheFallLine Avatar
    LifeOnTheFallLine

    Yeah, yeah…let’s see how tough they are when it comes to laying asphalt during a Richmond summer.

    1. My reaction exactly. The Russians do freezing cold better than anyone else. Let’s see how they hold up in 100 degrees in high humidity!

  3. Yes VDOT has done a good job around Fairfax this winter. I especially think they deserve special praise for how they handle “heavy” snow that’s water-saturated — that’s a very different task than pushing wind-blown drifts around.

  4. Peter Galuszka Avatar
    Peter Galuszka

    Jim,
    You mean like Sochi? I hear it may be like that in a few days. So much for the $50 billion investment in winter games!

    1. Poor Russkies. I almost feel sorry for them. Almost.

  5. okay.. I have a question. it has to do with people who are used to snow conditions and people who are not.. or possibly people who are used to different kinds of winter conditions.

    A guy I know from Michigan which gets it’s share of snow every year came to DC and was totally puzzled to see windshield wipers on cars pulled out and could not understand why.

    According to him, such behavior is unheard of in Michigan.

    what say the folks here?

  6. Peter Galuszka Avatar
    Peter Galuszka

    Laryg,
    I don’t know about DC but the answer in Russia is obvious. When I was there and there weren’t many cars or car parts, people always removed their windshield wipers because others would steal them. Some people who also remove their batteries from their cars when they parked on the street at night.
    I don’t know what it is like now and one would think that there would be enough car parts that people wouldn’t have to take protective measures.
    But after hearing and reading about how Sochi is going, it looks like they haven’t been making very much progress.

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