Sorry Tarheels, Virginia Invented Barbecue

by Jon Baliles

Yes, Virginia, it us true, we invented barbecue.

Last week my podcast library downloaded the latest episode of Eat It, Virginia, a podcast hosted by Wise and Martin as they welcomed Deb Freeman, a local Richmond rockstar who hosts her own podcast called Setting the Table. Her new-ish series focuses on the impact African Americans have made on American food, and even though it is only 12 episodes deep, it is a barn-burner: Setting the Table is the most listened-to food podcast on Apple podcasts and has been ranked the #1 food podcast in Canada, and charted high in France, China, Germany, Russia, and on and on.

Freeman has hosted episodes discussing black farmers, black brewers and distillers, “The Great Migration and Black Food,” “The Complicated Stories of Soul Food,” and “Yellowcake and Black Baking.”

“Virginia is so vital to so many American foods. Barbecue started here, macaroni and cheese, ice cream started here, fried chicken started here,” she said. “These are things that folks aren’t really talking about. But Virginians really need to be proud of. All of these great Southern and American dishes that everyone still eats today, 400 years later, they all came from Virginia.”

Excuse me? Barbeque was born in Virginia? Is that what she said? (She does, indeed — the interview with Freeman starts about the 18:45 mark of the Eat It, Virginia podcast, and the deep dive on barbecue starts at the 36 minute mark.)
To listen to Freeman’s “Virginia: The Birthplace of Barbecue” on her setting the Table podcast, click here). My favorite line is “I’m sorry North Carolina people, but really, in a lot of ways, Carolina barbecue is an extension of Virginia barbecue with a much better marketing campaign.”

A piece of friendly advice — don’t listen on an empty stomach.

“Barbecue was created in Virginia,” Freeman stated with confidence. “It was the combination of Native Americans, enslaved African Americans, and Europeans. That mixture was not happening anywhere else at the time. You’ve got pigs and vinegar from Europeans, you’ve got some smoking techniques from Native Americans, and then you’ve got not only the seasoning techniques of Africans, and later African Americans, but really knowing how to cook something low and slow.”

“That’s something that only happened in Virginia, and people need to be proud of it. Let’s talk about it because people aren’t talking about it.”

Amen to that.

Let’s listen to it and let’s talk about it — and let’s eat!

This column has been republished with permission from RVA 5X5.


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38 responses to “Sorry Tarheels, Virginia Invented Barbecue”

  1. Wait, what? Virginians invented macaroni and cheese, too?

    1. Jefferson introduced it to the States when he experienced it in Paris. He is likely the reason why baked mac and cheese is so popular in the south, as he did a baked version.

      1. Nancy Naive Avatar
        Nancy Naive

        And cooking with tomatoes and rice. He smuggled rice out of Italy under penalty of death.

      2. So it’s Euro-centric, white supremacist and racist? It must be stopped!!

      3. DJRippert Avatar
        DJRippert

        He should have included that in his self-written epitaph rather than founding the University of Virginia. He missed the Louisiana Purchase too.

  2. YellowstoneBound1948 Avatar
    YellowstoneBound1948

    If Virginia “invented” barbecue, Tennessee “perfected” it. Virginia is the home of “Virginia country ham,” but few associate Virginia with barbecue.

    Why are people moving to Nashville and Memphis? Barbecue. And, if you prefer chopped barbecue, ask for “lean and outside.” If chopped barbecue is not required, ask for “pulled” barbecue.

    Barbecue! It’s what’s for dinner! (And breakfast and lunch.)

    1. Matt Adams Avatar
      Matt Adams

      Only if your brisket is smoked with some good post oak and and some SPG.

  3. Nancy Naive Avatar
    Nancy Naive

    Uh yep. Virginia invented it, North Carolina stole it, and South Carolina lowland Q is the perfection. Texas ruined it with ketchup and beef.

    1. john harvie Avatar
      john harvie

      “Texas ruined it with ketchup”

      Amen

  4. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
    James Wyatt Whitehead

    Makes sense. Virgina is the mother state. We were the most populous in 1787 as well. Virginia’s sons who migrated to Kentucky, Tennessee, Texas, the deep south, and the Ohio river valley brought how to make BBQ with them. It takes real skill to turn the toughest part of a cow, the brisket, into a slice of heaven. Old school Virginia BBQ is very simple like in Texas. Low and slow. Salt and pepper. I found my 4th great grandfather’s autobiography in the Virginia Historical Society. Many stories in there about how to cook traditional Virginia dishes. Need to write those down some time.

  5. Super Brain Avatar
    Super Brain

    Pierce’s in Williamsburg does great BBQ at a very fair price. Great sides too.
    Extra Billy’s is still pretty decent and does not charge Richmond prices. No food tax either.
    NC has good BBQ most everywhere.
    Calhoun’s in Knoxville is must have.

    1. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
      James Wyatt Whitehead

      I like Pierces. That is definitely a traditional VA BBQ. My personal fave is P and G BBQ in Petersburg.

      1. Stephen Haner Avatar
        Stephen Haner

        Kings was my favorite down that way. Chopped BBQ. I’ve eaten it at quite a few different Texas places, Nancy, and nobody puts ketchup on good beef brisket and lives to see sunset.

        1. Nancy Naive Avatar
          Nancy Naive

          The dirty secret, Steve, dem dumb cowboys mix it with the honey and molasses (which is what it tastes like compare to our BBQ).

      2. Super Brain Avatar
        Super Brain

        I need to check P and G out.

        1. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
          James Wyatt Whitehead

          Been there a good while now. Old school family place. Be sure to get the pork BBQ sliced. Perfectly cooked, fork tender, smoke ring, and top shelf.

      3. DJRippert Avatar
        DJRippert

        Monk’s in Purceville and Mookie’s in Great Falls are both damn good.

    2. Nancy Naive Avatar
      Nancy Naive

      The best BBQ in Virginia went the way of the dodo when Bill’s BBQ, aka “The Big Pig” in Hampton closed. The next best is at a place in South Norfolk on Campostella.

      Pierce’s is good touron food.

      1. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
        James Wyatt Whitehead

        Bill’s, the home of limeade. Good pie too.

        1. Nancy Naive Avatar
          Nancy Naive

          Corn fritters to die for.

          1. Stephen Haner Avatar
            Stephen Haner

            And BEEF barbecue.

          2. Nancy Naive Avatar
            Nancy Naive

            At the Big Pig? Sacrilege.

  6. DJRippert Avatar
    DJRippert

    The only DC-area indigenous food is the half smoke. Used to be served all over. Pretty rare now. Ben’s Chili Bowl serves up a good one.

    The debate over the origin of Brunswick stew continues … Brunswick County, Virginia or Brunswick, Georgia.

    1. Not Germany?

      😉

  7. Stephen Haner Avatar
    Stephen Haner

    Right. Barbacoa, the origin of the name for what we all call barbecue now, that’s a Monacan Indian word, right? No? Spanish is it? Well it must have been some Mexicans who found their way to Virginia. Sheesh, humans have been smoking meat for what, 100,000 years? (Started with each other…)

    1. DJRippert Avatar
      DJRippert

      Barbacoa comes from a Caribbean word originated by the Taino people indigenous to that area. It is derived from the Arawak word barbaca.

      The Taino people were the first native North Americans to encounter Christopher Columbus.

      Exactly how the word barbaca became barbacoa which became barbecue is apparently lost in the mists of history.

      Always happy to provide answers to a William & Mary grad. It’s part of the “give back to Virginia” pledge that we UVa grads all took upon graduation.

      1. Stephen Haner Avatar
        Stephen Haner

        Fools should have barbecued Columbus when they had the chance… 🙂

        1. DJRippert Avatar
          DJRippert

          I once watched a move called Apoclypto. Most violent movie I have ever seen. The final scene, at the end of 2+ hours of mayhem, was the star watching the Spanish conquistadores come ashore in the new world. The presumption was that the proceeding violence was nothing compared to what would come next.

      2. Arawak are a northern tribe, aren’t they? From what is now Massachusetts and Maine?

        1. DJRippert Avatar
          DJRippert

          The Arawak are from northern South America and the Caribbean. At least, that’s my understanding.

          1. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
            James Wyatt Whitehead

            I’ve heard that. Florida needs to up it’s bbq game. Wild pigs everywhere. As frequent as deer and snakes.
            https://www.newsweek.com/wild-hogs-florida-are-tearing-lawns-terrorizing-neighborhood-1730691

          2. I wonder how barbecued Burmese Python would taste…

          3. You are correct.

            For some reason I was confusing them with the Agawam tribe.

      3. john harvie Avatar
        john harvie

        VA may have invented it but NC perfected it. Most VA BBQ I’ve encountered is like Pierce’s on Rt 60 near the ‘burg. A tomato sauce which ruins it for me.

        NC’s is vinegary and tender. Alas I think best two places to get it are maybe closed. Cowlings in Waverly and a place (name escapes me) just after you go south on Lee Bridge on the way to Hull St.

        1. DJRippert Avatar
          DJRippert

          I agree. Virginia supposedly invented BBQ, country music, etc. But we seem to have a lack of the stick-to-it attitude. North Carolina, Tennessee (especially Memphis), Kansas City and even Alabama all have distinctive BBQ styles. Virginia? Not so much. And country music’s home is Nashville with a summer home in Austin.

          I also like the Eastern Carolina style of BBQ with the vinegar-y sauce.

    2. Nancy Naive Avatar
      Nancy Naive

      People will smoke anything.

  8. Nancy Naive Avatar
    Nancy Naive

    Beale’s Smoked Meats and Microbrewery in Bedford, Va. All meats on onsite including melt-in-your-mouth pork rinds — heart attack in a brown paper bag.

    They are opening a location in Yorktown. Speaking of Yortown, Pop’s BBQ has been a smoke pit since before Pierce’s was a gleam in a pig’s eye.

    One of these days, I’m going to take a road trip to Florida on two-lane blacktop through the and stop at every dive named “Pop’s” as I go.

  9. CarScott Avatar

    Apparently Virginians are forgetting about that part of the world called the Caribbean, where barbacoa was observed long before the beloved Virgin queen was honored with Virginia.

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