OCRACOKE–For those of you who have never heard of Ocracoke Island — and there seem to be a surprising number of you — it is a 16-mile island in the Outer Banks of North Carolina in the shape of a rope with a knot tied at one end. The 14 miles of “rope” consist of national wildlife refuge and are forever off limits to development. This refuge contains the most magnificent beaches on the East Coast of the United States, spectacular wetlands and miles and miles of dunes.
Human habitation is limited to Ocracoke Village at the “knot” at the end of the island. During the winter, the village sports a population of 800. During the peak of the summer season, between visitors and temporary workers, the population increases to 5,000 to 6,000. The island, accessible only by ferry, is one of the most isolated spots in the Outer Banks. (Only the deserted fishing village of Portsmouth, on an island with no ferry service, is more remote, if my geographical knowledge serves me correctly.)
Ocracoke is a fascinating microcosm, a case study in human settlement patterns. Though remote, it is becoming increasingly popular, but the community seems to be maintaining its integrity. The original village arose around the Ocracoke lighthouse and a small, protected harbor. The houses are set on tiny lots in close proximity. There is no central sewage system, so density is limited by square-footage requirements for septic systems. Otherwise the main restrictions are limitations on building height, building setbacks and tight water supplies that limit the number of new meters.
There don’t appear to be any zoning regulations that restrict “incompatible” land uses. The historic village is a charming mix of single-family houses, shops and restaurants. Many of the locals make their living as artisans and/or artists, and they live and work in the same premises. Lots of white picket fences. Quaint lanes of sand and crushed oyster shell. The trees, though wind-swept and scrubby, offer thick foliage. These, combined with the native island vegetation, have a stark and distinctive beauty.
Cars abound — the touristas all arrive on car-bearing ferries. But in the central village, where destinations are located close to one another, the primary means of locomotion is bicycle and foot. I have been surprised to espy only a handful of golf carts/electric buggies. There may be a business opportunity for someone to fill the void.
The local promoters are given to calling Ocracoke the “Martha’s Vineyard” of the South. Indeed, it does resemble Martha’s Vineyard before it was thoroughly yuppified and the original dwellings gave way to $3 million McMansions. I hope that fate never befalls this magical island….
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