A Long Time Ago in a World Far Far Away

Mafic dike in wall of granite. Roadcut on VA Rt. 16 near Mouth of Wilson Baptist Church

by Dick Hall-Sizemore

This past weekend I went back in Virginia’s history. Waaaay back. Over a billion years back.

The occasion was the 2023 Virginia Geological Field Conference. This is an annual event staged by a group of leading geologists in the state. Attending were faculty members from several institutions, including one community college; geologists from the United States Geological Service; staff from several state agencies, such as the Department of Environmental Equality; college students, folks from the private sector; and one or two non-geologists (such as me) who nevertheless are keenly interested in the science.

We met in the Mt. Rogers area (the site of the conference rotates among Virginia’s five geographic regions). There we spent a day and a half traveling among sites that have been explored and mapped by USGS geologists over the past few years. We would go to a site, get a briefing from the lead USGS geologist and then go crawl over and around the rocks, with many using their geologist’s hammer to break off chunks for examination. As for me, I would stand in front of a wall of rock or hold a chunk in my hand and ask one of the USGS or other geologists, “Tell me what I am looking at.”

Most people (including me), when they think of Mt. Rogers at all, simply think of it as the highest peak in Virginia. But it is so much more than that. Mt. Rogers and two other nearby mountains are the remnants of ancient volcanoes. A glacier once covered much of the area. There was a huge lake that covered a significant portion of the area. (When I asked how big a lake, the USGS guy just spread his arms out wide.) The whole area is the leading edge of the Blue Ridge Thrust Plate. (That is the part of the state that was pushed up, back, over when the land mass that contained what is now Virginia slammed into Northern Africa during the formation of the supercontinent Pangea.) In the Mt. Rogers area, there are portions of the “basement rock” that was formed 1.3 billion years ago during the formation of the earlier supercontinent Rodinia. (I got a chunk of that.)

I bring all this up on a blog devoted to public affairs because an experience like this gives one a whole new perspective on the world. We argue passionately about events, but their importance and immediacy seem to fade in the face of so much quiet continuity. The rocks were here long before humans inhabited the Earth, and they will be here a long time after this generation of humans has passed. For example, these rocks have endured many changes in the climate. At the same time, however, they are not permanent. They erode, grain by grain, primarily from weathering. After all, the sediment from the mountains is what constitutes our beaches.

Another benefit of the conference for me was watching scientists work. The lead USGS geologist would present his findings (of which I understood about five percent) and others would challenge some of his conclusions or theories. He would then present the reasons why he thought his conclusions were more plausible than an alternative being presented. (The guidebook he created for the conference will likely be soon published as a USGS bulletin or paper.)  In some cases, they would note that long-held explanations had been superseded. “We used to think “xyz”, but now, based on more recent evidence, we think “abc.” (For example, the likely time period of the Mt. Rogers glacier has been changed to a time earlier than once thought.) The technology that current geologists have is far superior to that available to their predecessors. Nevertheless, they are building on the findings of past geologists—refining and tweaking those earlier theories.

Furthermore, there are still lots of questions. Geologists often have explanations for what they are seeing in the rock but admit that is just their conclusion and may not account for all the evidence present. (Geology is unlike most other sciences. Often, there are unavoidable gaps in the evidence, eroded away. Also, a lot of evidence is deep underground, not easily available.) They often disagree. One presentation showed three different mappings by different geologists for the same fault system. And, finally, there were occasions for which they had no answers.

At the last stop on Sunday, we were examining an outcrop of mudstone (fine-grained sedimentary rock) and some rocks had lots of white spots on them (some said it looked like bird poop). Neither the retired state geologist, a retired geology professor, nor the lead USGS geologist knew what it was and all said so. (Somehow, it was reassuring to me that these experts don’t always have the answers.)

At the end of the conference, I realized what a relief it was to be, however briefly, in an atmosphere in which people were not arguing passionately about DEI, abortion, critical race theory, tax cuts, immigration, parents’ rights, etc. Instead, there was serious discussion and good-natured debate about rhyolites, mafic dikes, intrusions, faults, unconformities, amygdule (look it up), cameras, etc.

The one exception was a high school earth sciences teacher whom I sat next to in the van on Sunday. In response to my questions, he voiced the same complaints that often appear on this blog: students’ poor preparation, pressure to pass students, too few days to cover the material he needs to cover for the SOL, students’ attitudes and discipline problems, and lack of backing from administration.

Finally, I took this picture for the benefit of our resident historian of religion in Virginia, James Wyatt Whitehead:

I also saw Missionary Baptist churches, but could not get a picture of one.


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Comments

36 responses to “A Long Time Ago in a World Far Far Away”

  1. LesGabriel Avatar
    LesGabriel

    Your comments bring to mind the question of why we can no longer have serious and productive discussions and debates about serious social, political, and economic topics. We seem to live in an era when any attempt to do so quickly turns into name-calling, character assassination, or worse.

  2. LarrytheG Avatar

    re: ” At the end of the conference, I realized what a relief it was to be, however briefly, in an atmosphere in which people were not arguing passionately about DEI, abortion, critical race theory, tax cuts, immigration, parents’ rights, etc. Instead, there was serious discussion and good-natured debate about rhyolites, mafic dikes, intrusions, faults, unconformities, amygdule (look it up), cameras, etc.”

    Indeed.

    We’d paddle rivers all over Virginia. Small rivers, even creeks most folks would have no idea what following those rivers/creeks was like. We had a fellow paddler who was a geologist also. Every trip
    was a treat and a learning experience as we’d come around a bend, and he’d be explaining what we were looking at.

    As I recall, we would have philosophical discussions… we had folks of different persuasions, but it was never at the level we
    see now. Things like DEI were not even in the lexicon.

  3. LarrytheG Avatar

    Folks that like Dick’s post, might also like this: https://www.geographyrealm.com/

  4. walter smith Avatar
    walter smith

    My oldest son graduated from W&L before it became Woke & Leftist and took a geology class and got hooked. He told me the Lexington area was fascinating and about a field trip to something like Devil’s Graveyard?

    1. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
      Dick Hall-Sizemore

      It is called “Devil’s Marbleyard,” and is considered one of the hardest hikes in the state. https://www.onlyinyourstate.com/virginia/devils-marbleyard-otherworldly-va/

    2. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
      Dick Hall-Sizemore

      It is called “Devil’s Marbleyard,” and is considered one of the hardest hikes in the state. https://www.onlyinyourstate.com/virginia/devils-marbleyard-otherworldly-va/

      1. walter smith Avatar
        walter smith

        One day – Dad and the boys have to do it…
        Maybe when my Nashville son is in town, we’ll do it.

  5. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
    James Wyatt Whitehead

    Still haven’t made it to Mt. Rogers Mr. Dick. That little old church is a healthy one. They even have a Spacebook page. The discussion of geology, time, and religion brings up one of my favorite hymns. Thoroughly enjoyed the column.

    “Time! what an empty vapour ’tis!
    And days how swift they are!
    Swift as an Indian arrow flies,
    Or like a shooting star.”

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQ6Ac_6WYs0

    1. how_it_works Avatar
      how_it_works

      No Google Street View for that road. Is it even paved?

      1. LarrytheG Avatar

        not paved as I recall..and you don’t want to meet someone coming the other way
        on some parts…

        1. how_it_works Avatar
          how_it_works

          A road that Byrd forgot, sounds like.

          1. LarrytheG Avatar

            I’m thinking it is a state signed road! Yep 623 !

          2. how_it_works Avatar
            how_it_works

            Those 600 and higher roads seem to be assigned in chronological order, so anything below say 699 was probably there when the numbers were assigned in the 1930s.

          3. LarrytheG Avatar

            could be. There are groups that actually do this! If you read the Virginia History of Roads, you’ll get
            some good background on how Virginia roads came to start out. We first had waterways… then
            we had roads branch out on ridges … the Church did a lot of it. People would lobby for the
            roads to come to their land because it made their land more accessible and valuable! Parishioners
            were signed up for so many days or hours to contribute. The State needed to integrate a network. Individual counties had differing standards and did not see the value of roads that connected counties
            together… and the rails came to be before the State really got further involved. Many smaller places
            in Virginia today, people wonder why they are even there! They were formed when the rails came through carrying coal! That’s what made Roanoke what it became but now is left behind by the rails.

          4. how_it_works Avatar
            how_it_works

            No idea if it happened much in Virginia but people actually donated right of way to build roads. Where I live, my property lines go to the middle of the 600-series road in front. No idea if that means the land was donated by a former owner or what.

          5. LarrytheG Avatar

            I don’t know either but some roads given the hills and curves make me wonder if that was
            land the property owners considered less useful to them and more easily provided for a road.
            Back then, vehicles were SLOW so it really did not matter as much with curves and hills.

    2. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
      James Wyatt Whitehead

      I have been on that road. Took my 88 Oldsmobile on it. Switchback city! Was able to successfully ford a creek without stalling. It was deep enough for water to run over the hood.

      1. LarrytheG Avatar

        adventure!

    3. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
      Dick Hall-Sizemore

      I love Burke’s Garden. It is one of the most fascinating places in the state. I had heard there was a back way out, but have never looked for it. Being told that the Forest Service sometimes had trouble navigating it was enough to discourage me from trying it.

      1. LarrytheG Avatar

        go with two cars so one can go for help if needed… 😉

    4. Paul Sweet Avatar
      Paul Sweet

      The first time I drove through Burkes Garden I came in from Rt. 61 in the west, and drove out down that road. 15 miles of gravel switchback going down the mountain side. By the time I got to the bottom and got onto Rt. 42 I almost stopped and got out to kiss the pavement!

      1. LarrytheG Avatar

        It’s an adventure!

  6. Eric the half a troll Avatar
    Eric the half a troll

    Thanks for this terrific piece, Dick. I think one of the great disservices we do our children in high school these days is allow them to skip Earth Science in order to “accelerate” to pursue other AP science courses. As you noted, the Earth (and our solar system and beyond for that matter) is not going anywhere (well, it is actually changing a great deal and going far but really slowly… or quickly depending on your frame of reference… I digress…). Everybody would be better served with a better understanding of our home and the processes at work here. Whether one chooses to believe they are at play or not makes no difference in the outcomes.

    I have always tried to weave some geology into every vacation trip my family has gone on. Highly recommend doing this. It usually gets you away from the crowds, is interesting, and the history is just as meaningful as any ornate castle or church. Two I want to do over the next few years include the Burgess Shale hike in Canada and Hutton’s Unconformity in Scotland.

    1. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
      Dick Hall-Sizemore

      Wow, you hit the big ones.

      1. Eric the half a troll Avatar
        Eric the half a troll

        Not yet, I haven’t. Bucket list items (much as I hate that term). If you really like this stuff, Dick, read “The Map That Changed the World: William Smith and the Birth of Modern Geology” (if you haven’t already that is). Quick read and right along these same lines.

        1. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
          Dick Hall-Sizemore

          I haven’t read that one. Thanks for the reference. My staple is “Annals of the Former World” by John McPhee. I have read it three times–great writer.

          1. Lefty665 Avatar

            McPhee’s half dozen books on geology are all wonderful. I encourage you to get them all. He’s an incredible writer.

          2. Dick Hall-Sizemore Avatar
            Dick Hall-Sizemore

            “Annals of the Former World” is a compilation of all the “geology books” with some updating. Furthermore, I have read all his other books and have them on my shelf.

      2. Eric the half a troll Avatar
        Eric the half a troll

        Not yet, I haven’t. Bucket list items (much as I hate that term). If you really like this stuff, Dick, read “The Map That Changed the World: William Smith and the Birth of Modern Geology” (if you haven’t already that is). Quick read and right along these same lines.

    2. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
      James Wyatt Whitehead

      I loved Earth Science. One of the few great teachers I had at Stonewall Jackson High. I have maintained an interest in the subject since then. You are right about Earth Science as the holding pattern science class for sweat hogs. The top shelf kids move right into Biology or Chemistry.

      1. LarrytheG Avatar

        That would be the way to reach some kids… when the other ways don’t interest them.

        1. James Wyatt Whitehead Avatar
          James Wyatt Whitehead

          I always thought that education leaders should weave together Earth Science and Geography into one class. It would make a great confluence of interlocking subjects that would strengthen both courses and keep them from falling by the wayside.

          1. LarrytheG Avatar

            Yes. And all kinds of earth sensing technology jobs are out there now from satellite technology to GPS navigation, etc… one of my interesting classes in College was air photo interpretation.. i.e. how to
            recognize different features in air /satellite photos.. A lot of geology these days is done from the air looking down!

  7. killerhertz Avatar
    killerhertz

    I don’t know what that rock is, but I’m sure it has something to do with slavery.

  8. Stephen Haner Avatar
    Stephen Haner

    And a host of idiots call the infinitesimal variations of our environment we are experiencing now “catastrophic climate change.” The real changes are on geologic time.

    We’ve taken a few trips out west lately and noted and enjoyed the geology (my wife took it in college), which is on much more open display without all the foliage. But Virginia’s past is just as fascinating.

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